We came for a quiet week and ended up staying eleven days. Every morning the caretaker left a hand-drawn map of a different tide pool. By the end I couldn't remember what my phone was for.

Booked for the surf, stayed for the kitchen. They lend you a rod, show you where the line-caught fish sleeps, and set a table on the cliff when the swell is down. The rooms are almost beside the point.

Snow came in the first night and we were the only guests for two days. The host left bread, soup and a pair of snowshoes by the door and told us to take our time. We're already planning the summer return.